To date, facial acne flare-ups in adult women during the luteal phase of the menstrual cycle have been poorly investigated. To clinically characterize premenstrual acne flare-up in adult women and investigate the effect of a dermocosmetic treatment. This single-centre study included 32 young adult women with declared premenstrual acne flares and was composed of two phases: (1) an observational phase (two menstrual cycles) and (2) an interventional phase (one menstrual cycle) in a controlled, randomised, double-blind, intra-individual (half-face) setting in which a dermocosmetic (containing lipohydroxyacid, nicotinamide, and piroctone-olamine) and placebo were compared. Initially, during the first part of the study, we observed that premenstrual acne flare-ups in adult women were characterized by a significant increase in the number of papules (20.2 vs. 13.7; p = 0.0008) and to a lesser extent, closed comedones (25.6 vs. 22.7; p = 0.04). Secondly, during the interventional phase, the half-face treated with the dermocosmetic formulation showed a significantly lower number of inflammatory lesions (7.6 vs 9.4; p = 0.01) during the luteal phase compared to the half-face treated with the placebo. Tolerance of the dermocosmetic formulation was rated as good or excellent. Our data indicate a significant increase in the number of papules during premenstrual acne flare-ups in adult women and the use of a dermocosmetic may be of benefit in partially reducing this premenstrual inflammatory flare-up.
Keywords: adult women acne; dermocosmetic; premenstrual flare-up.