Identification of the pigments used in permanent makeup and their ability to elicit allergic contact dermatitis

J Am Acad Dermatol. 2024 Sep;91(3):474-479. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2024.05.067. Epub 2024 May 31.

Abstract

Background: Decorative tattoos are known to contain ingredients that may elicit allergic contact dermatitis; it is less well-known if permanent makeup pigments carry the same risk.

Objective: Identify pigments used in permanent makeup inks sold in the United States and review cases of allergic contact dermatitis to these pigments.

Methods: Using internet searches, permanent makeup inks sold in the United States were identified. Safety data sheets were used to catalog pigments used in permanent makeup. A subsequent literature search was performed to identify cases of allergic contact dermatitis to these pigments.

Results: A total of 974 permanent makeup inks were reviewed, and 79 unique pigments were identified. The average product contained 4 pigments. Twenty of the pigments were inorganic metals, including carbon, iron, chromium, manganese, and molybdenum. Fifty-nine pigments were organic, of which most were azo, quinacridone, or anthraquinone dyes. A literature search revealed that 10 of the 79 pigments were associated with allergic contact dermatitis.

Conclusion: Permanent makeup primarily uses organic pigments, although some metallic pigments are still used. Physicians should also be aware that some of these pigments-both organic and inorganic-are known causes of allergic contact dermatitis. Of note, patch testing to these ingredients can be negative.

Keywords: allergic contact dermatitis; allergy; contact dermatitis; cosmetic tattoo; market survey; permanent makeup; pigment.

MeSH terms

  • Coloring Agents* / adverse effects
  • Dermatitis, Allergic Contact* / diagnosis
  • Dermatitis, Allergic Contact* / etiology
  • Humans
  • Ink
  • Patch Tests
  • Tattooing / adverse effects
  • United States / epidemiology

Substances

  • Coloring Agents